Particularly with kids in the house, that would obviously not be ideal. This meant with the skim coat option, the plasterer would invariable have been spreading lead paint dust around the place. * Our ceilings and some walls had lead paint. I assume this is because of better fire performance (and possibly also because of bracing as above) and repairability. This could get you a discount on your insurance - check with your insurer. * Insurance companies these days are keen to know if your house has been relined. But, I believe it counts as structural work and would need to be carried out or supervised by a licensed building practitioner. This just involves putting more screws on particular sheets of gib in a specific pattern. * If you are relining large areas, and are getting consent anyway, then you could get the designer to do a bracing plan and improve the wind/earthquake resilience of your house. Yell out if you are in Christchurch and I will find the link to the information. There is an exemption in place for Christchurch for low risk insulation/cladding combinations, and may be for other regions as well. * If you are going to insulate exterior walls, and there is no existing insulation, then strictly speaking that will require building consent. * Fortunately the sheets were about the same thickness, which otherwise would have meant adjustment at window and door reveals. The alternative would be to cut the gib to fit the existing framing, but then you lose the tapered edges of the sheets at joins. That can obviously add cost, and also means the ceiling height is slightly lower. This meant that the builder had to put blocking in the walls to support joins and batten the ceiling. * The size of our fibrous plaster sheets were different to the new (metric) sheets of gib. A few extra things to think about beyond the comments above: We relined a couple of bedrooms in our 1939 house last year, replacing fibrous plaster sheets.

I didn't use any internal trims just paper embedding tape for my corners but I've since helped someone renovate who used goldline corner trim it makes for perfect corners and makes the job a lot easier so I would use those in the future.

Winstone have very good guides showing all the things you should do so its worth spending a few nights reading all the guides before you start. I would recommend tradeset 90 for the initial tape embedding it sets hard using a chemical reaction rather than air drying and your less likely to have the tape bubble out on you later as you put more thin smooth layers on top. Plastic spaces they use for window installation is cheap and also another option along with fox wedges if you need to fix the alignment of a wall that and simply nudging the wall itself if its bare on both sides with a large mallet. You can get Gib glue (the stuff that comes out green is best as it bonds to everything metal wood all sorts) don't glue where you will put screws unless you want to see depressions in the gib wall in 2 years. Not sure how good your gibbing skills are but here's my experience - use liquid nails/adhesive to hold gib to wall, use screws not clouts, use the concave edge on the gib together to do your visible joins (bedding it in with tape).

you may need to pack out to get new gib to sit properly. The thing to be wary of, is that in old houses they sometimes used to use a square that wasn't square :-). Or would there be some more steps neccessary that I have missed out? I know the joins would still have to be plasterd which is something I think I could do myself.Дoes anyone reading this have experience in this area, would it be a better idea to remove the old walls and replace with jib as it would be cheaper and I could do it myself (saving the hourly rate of the decorator). That got me thinking having that done would cost about $15 per square meter based on that quote, but replacing the walls with jib (something I could do myself) would be cheaper as the price of jib at bunnings is about $7 per square meter. I was told after stripping the wallpaper there would need to be a base layer of bedding compund smeered over the walls, then it needs a coat of pigmented sealer, then a coat of finishing compund and finally a vacuum sand, the price to have this done to my hallway was about $1500, meaning getting the whole house done would cost a fortune. I had a decorator around for a quote on the smallest area to get an idea of what it would cost to have the house done (the hall with about 10 square meters of wall). I have been looking at stripping the old wallpaper in my place so I can paint the walls, the thing is being an old place the internal walls are that fiberious plaster stuff, not jib, which is not suitable for painting.

Alternatives to skim coating walls